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I read the following quote within a notebook at the Benaki Museum that states, “Athens, the city with a thousand faces and many contrasts, is waiting for you to come up with your own special reason to love it. Take a stroll beneath the Acropolis, and hear the stones telling stories and myths. If you are able to find art in every day’s life, to relax with an endless coffee in the bustling centre, to comprehend the worries of a modern-ancient city and start your evening out when Europe goes to sleep, then you will adore Athens.

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84-54-035 Ankara: the great Roman thermae, with details of the piscina and the huge hypocaust area

Ankara: the great Roman thermae, with details of the piscina and the huge hypocaust area (Professor Fred Winter, 1984)

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It is a quiet Sunday morning at the end of July in Siteia in eastern Crete. Where else would the intrepid field archaeologist be at this time of the year? After four weeks of digging and with two more ahead of us I would have liked to have slept in, but our cat, Luna, and our son’s pug, Bella, are now accustomed to rising six days a week much, much earlier to have their breakfasts. Just two more weeks and a more normal lifestyle awaits all of us.

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